Automatic Center Pin Punch Drill for Wood/Metal Hole
An automatic center punch is a hand tool used to produce a dimple in a workpiece (for example, a piece of metal). It performs the same function as an ordinary center punch but without the need for a hammer. When pressed against the workpiece, it stores energy in a spring, eventually releasing it as an impulse that drives the punch, producing the dimple. The impulse provided to the point of the punch is quite repeatable, allowing for uniform impressions to be made.
Package & Shipping:
- Free shipping all over the world
- 1pc Center Punch
- To Korea, Japan : it take about 7-10 days
- To USA, CA, Spain, France, Poland, Belgium, Portugal, United Kingdom, Germany, Italy and Netherlands: it take about 12 - 20days
- To other European countries and Ukraine,Belarus,Russian Federation: it take about 15-30 days
- To other countries: it take about 20-35 days
Features:
- Simple And Accurate To Use, Semi Automatic Window Breaking Device
- Knurled handle prevents slipping
- Gives precise starting point on steel and other solid materials
- Allows you to easily mark work using one hand prior to drilling which will prevent the drill from slipping
- Automatic Spring Loads Then Releases At Top Of Cycle With Force To Create Center Punch (No Hammer Needed)
- Spring pressure can be adjusted by simply rotating the knurled top of the punch
- Automatic design cleanly and accurately punches steel wood and plastic
Specification:
- Material: Knurled steel body + alloy steel point
- Overall Length: 130mm(5 Inch)
Applications:
- Marking and starting a hole for drilling without the bit "walking" out of alignment
- Letter stamp sets
- Glass-breaking tools used in rescue work and a common tool for a car thief
- Impact tool for hardness testing
- Pin presses for electronic assembly
Use of Center Pin Punch
A center punch is useful when making large indentations in metal, such as necessary to engage a twist drill. Take care that you do not strike with so much force as to cause the end to protrude through or dimple the metal around the indentation. Usually, a center punch is heavier than a prick punch and has a point ground to an angle of 60.
For driving out damaged rivets, bolts and pins that are bound up in holes, you should use the drive punch. The drive punch has a flat face instead of a point. The width of its face defines this type of punch, for example, 1/8-in or 1/4-in. The sides of a drive punch will taper all the way down to the face, but sometimes you may need to use a punch with a straight shank. This is called the pin or drift punch.
In practice, you first use a drive punch to drive the pin or bolt that is to be removed until the hole blocks the progress of the punch. You then use a pin punch to drive the bolt or pin the rest of the way until it is ejected from the hole. Be careful not to use a prick or a center punch to remove bolts or pins from holes, as the point of the punch will spread the object making it even more difficult to remove.
When necessary to fit a drill-locating hole in a template, you must use a transfer punch. The transfer punch is typically about 4-inches long and has a point that initially tapers, then runs straight for a short distance. The tip of the transfer punch is similar to that of a prick punch. True to its name, the transfer punch is useful for transferring the location of holes through a pattern or a template on to the metal.